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Car Insurance: Why It’s More Than Just a Legal Requirement


Car Insurance: Why It’s More Than Just a Legal Requirement (Protect Your Wallet and Your Ride with These Essential Tips)

 

Are you confused about car insurance? Are you unsure about the type and amount of coverage you should have? Are you wondering about how a deductible works? If you answered yes to any of those questions, then this article is for you.

It's dangerous out there on the road. That's why car insurance, in my opinion, is the most essential type of insurance. Today I'm going to go over the five core parts of an auto insurance policy.

Then I'm going to talk about how deductibles work and how to choose the right amount for your situation. And finally, I'll finish with three essential add-ons for your policy. Make sure you stick around until the very end when I'll tell you about the only state in the U.S. where auto insurance is not mandatory.


Five core parts of an auto insurance policy:

Bodily injury liability

Property damage liability

Collision

Comprehensive

Uninsured or underinsured motorist coverage

 

Let's go over each of these five parts one at a time so you understand what's being covered and how much coverage you should select.

1. Bodily Injury Liability.

If you ask me, this is the most important part of an auto insurance policy. If you get into an accident and you're at fault for that accident, your bodily injury liability coverage will compensate the people you injure. I'm talking about any medical bills, lost wages, and legal fees that arise due to the accident.

Your insurance company will pay for all of those expenses so you don't have to. Bodily injury liability coverage typically has two numbers associated with it. Some common options are 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, 100,000, and 100,000, 300,000.

Sometimes you'll see these options abbreviated as 10-20, 50-100, and 100-300. These numbers represent the limits or maximum amounts that an insurance company will pay out in an accident. The smaller number is the maximum amount they'll pay to a single person, and the larger number is the maximum amount that they'll pay in total to everyone who is injured in the accident.

As an example, let's say you have 50,000-100,000 limits. You get into an accident and injure


three people in the car you hit. Your insurance company would pay up to $50,000 to a single person, but no more than $100,000 to all three people combined.

The lower your limits, the less expensive your insurance will cost. But if you're at fault in an accident and don't have enough bodily injury liability coverage to compensate the people you injure, it's fairly likely that you'll be served with a lawsuit. For this reason, I'd recommend a minimum of 100,000-300,000 for your bodily injury liability limits.

2. Property Damage Liability. This coverage is similar to bodily injury liability, except for one key difference. If you get into an accident and you're at fault for that accident, your property damage liability coverage will pay for any damage you've caused to other vehicles, buildings, and property.

So if you crunch up someone's bumper, run over someone's mailbox, or drive through someone's front door, property damage liability will pay for the repairs so you don't have to. Just like with bodily injury liability, property damage liability has a limit. Some common options are $25,000, $50,000, and $100,000.

These limits represent the maximum amount in total per accident that the insurance company would pay out. Again, the lower your limit, the less expensive your insurance would cost. In a lot of places, you can get as little as $10,000 of property damage liability coverage.

But is that such a good idea? To find out, I asked my friend, an insurance agent from Miami. If you hit another car, sure, if you do a little fender bender and it's not a big deal, and you hit someone's bumper and coming out of a parking spot or something, it may not be a big deal. Maybe a couple thousand dollars and the insurance company obviously would pay for it even if you have that $10,000 minimum limit of property damage.

But again, when it comes to affordability and exposure, $10,000 may not be enough if you hit a car that costs $30,000, $40,000, $50,000 and you hit it pretty bad and their car's a total loss,

$10,000 is not going to cut it. There are a lot of new cars driving around on the road. You certainly don't want to have the minimum amount of coverage if you smash up someone's brand new BMW or Mercedes.

That's why I'd recommend a minimum of $50,000 of property damage liability coverage.

3. Collision Coverage. If you get into an accident and it's your fault, collision coverage is what's going to pay for the repairs to your vehicle.

If you hit another car, a tree or a guardrail and your car needs repairs, your insurance company will pay for it if you have collision coverage. If you can't afford to replace your car tomorrow, I'd recommend purchasing collision coverage. When you do, you need to select something called a deductible.

4. Comprehensive Coverage. This coverage is similar to


collision in that it covers damage to your vehicle, but with comprehensive coverage, it's all about the damage that's beyond your control.

I'm talking about things like a tree falling and crushing your car, a thief smashing your windows, or a flood inundating your car with water. In these types of situations, your insurance company will pay for the damage if you have comprehensive coverage. Just like with collision coverage, if you can't afford to replace your car tomorrow, I recommend getting comprehensive coverage.

Again, you'll need to select a deductible and I'll get to that in just a few. Last but not least is uninsured or underinsured motorist. I'll let Robert explain this one.

5. Uninsured motorist coverage

Uninsured motorist coverage would be a coverage that covers your medical injuries in case a person that hits you or is at fault in an accident against you, either that person does not have enough liability coverage to cover your medical injuries or they didn't even have bodily injury coverage or maybe it was a hit and run and they left and you had no idea. It's estimated that one out of every eight drivers in the U.S. does not have any auto insurance at all and an even larger percentage of drivers carries the minimum state required limits for bodily injury liability and property damage liability. If one of those uninsured or underinsured drivers injures you in an accident, their insurance might only pay you $10,000 or $15,000.

We all know that kind of money won't go very far if you have to go to the hospital and if you were driving your brand new Lexus, you could end up covering the repairs yourself. That's where uninsured or underinsured motorist coverage kicks in. There are two components to this coverage, one for bodily injury and one for property damage.

I recommend you select the same limits for bodily injury as you have for your bodily injury liability coverage. For the property damage portion, I recommend choosing an amount that's slightly more than the value of your vehicle. Depending on what state you live in, there may be one more component to your auto insurance policy called personal injury protection or PIP.

This type of coverage is sometimes referred to as no fault insurance or medical expense benefits. It's currently required in 16 states and optional in several others. If you have PIP coverage and you're injured in an accident, your insurance company will pay up to a certain amount to cover your injuries.

Both the amount and what's covered by PIP vary widely from state to state.

Three primary benefits to PIP coverage

First is that it comes before your health insurance. You don't need to meet your health insurance deductible before the PIP insurance kicks in and covers your medical expenses.

Second, you get paid quickly. You don't need to wait for any legal processes to play out while medical bills pile up.

And third, it helps keep the legal system running smoothly. In states where PIP is required, it prevents a bunch of minor cases for $3,000 or $5,000 from going to court and clogging things up. You'll need to get PIP if you're required by your state, but even if it's optional for you, I think it's a good idea to add it to your policy.

Now that you've got a good handle on the parts that make up an auto insurance policy, let's talk deductibles. When you add the collision and comprehensive coverages to your policy, you'll need to select something called a deductible. If you make an insurance claim and ask your insurance company to pay for damage to your vehicle, they'll write you a check.

That check will be for the cost of the repairs minus the deductible amount. Let's say you had a

$1,000 deductible on collision and you were to get in, let's say you hit a wall and your car had

$4,000 worth of damages, the insurance company would give you $4,000 minus your $1,000 deductible, so you'll get $3,000 to fix your vehicle. It's not that you have to put the money out of your pocket, you don't have to pay $1,000 to get to $3,000, and they’ll just deduct it from the claim payment.

The same thing goes for comprehensive. If your car was stolen and you have a $1,000 deductible and your car was worth, let's say they gave it a $10,000 valuation; they would give you $9,000 if you had a $1,000 deductible. You get to choose what the amount of your deductible is, and you can generally choose anywhere from $0 all the way up to $2,000 or more.

The lower your deductible, the more that collision and comprehensive coverage will cost. The higher your deductible, the less those coverage’s will cost. As I mentioned earlier, if you can't afford to replace your car tomorrow, I recommend getting both collision and comprehensive coverage.

And if you financed or leased your vehicle, both of these coverages will probably be mandatory. The deductible you choose should be based on what you can afford to pay for repairs if your car is damaged, and also based on the cost of the coverage. As an example, you might feel comfortable paying $1,000 if you're involved in an accident, so you select a $1,000 deductible for your collision coverage.

When you're pricing out your policy, you notice that to move down to a $500 deductible is just

$2 more per month. If you paid that extra $2 per month, 12 months per year, for 10 years before getting into an accident and filing a claim, you would have paid an extra $240 for that lower deductible. But when that accident happens, your deductible costs you just $500.

$500 plus $240 is $740. If you went for the $1,000 deductible, you'd be at $1,000 when that accident happens. In this situation, it's a no-brainer to go with the lower $500 deductible.

Experiment with different deductibles on your insurance policy to see how the overall cost changes. There's a really good chance that a much lower deductible is just a few dollars more per month, and if that's the case, I say go for it. I also suggest the same practice when pricing out your bodily injury liability, property damage liability, and uninsured or underinsured motorist coverages.


Sometimes, it's just a few dollars more per month for an extra $25, $50, or $100,000 of coverage. It's never a bad idea to have some extra auto insurance coverage. And if you can afford to and it makes financial sense, don't hesitate to go for the maximum amounts your insurance company will allow.

Before I wrap things up, I want to talk about three more coverages you may want to add to your auto insurance policy. The first one is called gap coverage, and it's worth taking a look at for leased or newer vehicles that are financed. We all know that new vehicles depreciate in value pretty rapidly in the first few years.

Because of that rapid depreciation, if you've leased or financed a new vehicle, you could owe more on that vehicle than it's currently worth. That's bad news if you get into an accident and it's totaled, because your insurance company is only going to write you a check for the value of the vehicle. If that check is for less than you owe, guess who's on the hook for the difference? That's right, you are.

That is, unless you've added gap coverage to your insurance policy. Gap coverage will take care of the difference between what your vehicle is worth and what you owe on it. If you owe more on your vehicle than it's worth, I think gap coverage is essential.

Second is rental car coverage. If your vehicle is in the shop for repairs that are being covered by your auto insurance policy, you're going to need a rental car to get around. And if you have rental car coverage, your insurance company will pay up to a certain amount for that rental car.

This could end up saving you hundreds of dollars if you have to file a claim. Third is roadside assistance. If you get locked out of your vehicle, run out of gas, or need to be towed, roadside assistance coverage can come in handy.

Your insurance company will dispatch someone to your location to help with your problem. Both rental car coverage and roadside assistance coverage tend to be very inexpensive. On my policy, they're each just one dollar per month.

For that reason, I think both are worth having. There's just one state in the U.S. that doesn't require auto insurance, and it's New Hampshire. But there's a catch.

You need to prove to the state that you have the financial means to cover the expenses related to an at-fault accident. If I lived in New Hampshire and had the means, I think I'd still get auto insurance regardless. What about you? If you had the option, would you still buy insurance or skip it?


 

5 Red Flags to Watch for in Vehicle History Reports

 

🕵️5 Red Flags to Watch for in Vehicle History Reports

Buying a used car can save you thousands — but only if you know what’s hiding beneath the surface. A vehicle history report is your best friend when shopping for a pre-owned vehicle. It provides crucial details about the car’s past, from accident records to odometer readings.

However, not every report tells a happy story. Some warning signs in a VIN check or Carfax alternative report can indicate serious problems that might cost you later.

Here are five red flags to watch for in vehicle history reports before you hand over your money.


🚩 1. Title Issues (Salvage, Rebuilt, or Flood Titles)

One of the biggest red flags in any vehicle history report is a title issue. A car labeled as “salvage”, “rebuilt”, or “flood-damaged” means it’s been in a major accident, natural disaster, or had severe mechanical problems.

Even if the car looks fine now, structural damage or electrical problems may resurface. Always check the title status first — if it’s anything other than clean, proceed with caution.

Keywords: title issues, salvage title, flood title, vehicle history report red flags.


🚩 2. Inconsistent Odometer Readings

A mileage discrepancy is a serious red flag that could signal odometer fraud. Compare the mileage listed in service records, inspections, and registration renewals.

If the vehicle history report shows the mileage suddenly dropping or staying the same over several years, the odometer may have been tampered with — an illegal but not uncommon practice.

Keywords: odometer rollback, VIN report, used car mileage, VIN check.


🚩 3. Multiple Owners in a Short Time

If a vehicle has had several owners within a short period, it could indicate ongoing issues. Some owners quickly sell cars after discovering hidden problems.

A VIN check report or Carfax alternative like EpicVIN or VINCheckPro can reveal the ownership history. Be wary if the car has changed hands multiple times in just a few years.

Keywords: ownership history, Carfax alternative, VIN report analysis.


🚩 4. Accident or Damage History

Accidents happen — but recurring damage reports are a serious concern. Look at the severity of the accidents and where the damage occurred.

A vehicle history report may list multiple insurance claims or structural repairs. Pay attention to the airbag deployment or frame damage sections; these can affect safety and resale value.

Keywords: accident history, VIN report, vehicle damage, Carfax report alternatives.


🚩 5. Gaps in Service or Maintenance Records

A lack of maintenance records is another warning sign. Reliable VIN reports often include oil changes, inspections, and other services logged by certified mechanics.

If you see long gaps in the service timeline, it might mean the vehicle wasn’t properly maintained — leading to costly repairs down the line.

Keywords: maintenance history, VIN check report, used car reliability.


🧠 Final Thoughts

A vehicle history report is more than just a formality — it’s your window into a car’s true past. Whether you use Carfax, AutoCheck, or one of the best Carfax alternatives, always scrutinize these five red flags before buying.

Doing your homework now can save you from expensive surprises later.


Pro Tip:
Run a free VIN check on multiple platforms before committing. Comparing vehicle history reports from different sources often reveals extra data one report might miss.

 

How to Get a FREE Carfax Report (2025) – Buying a Car Private Party 🚗✨

 



So, you’re in the market for a car and buying from a private seller—exciting! But before you make any decisions, you need to check the car’s history. Dealerships usually provide a free Carfax report, but private sellers? Not so much. Most sellers aren’t willing to shell out $50-$60 for a Carfax report, which means you’ll have to find a way to get it yourself.


Good news: You can get a Carfax report for free! 🎉 No scams, no shady websites, and nothing illegal—just a simple method that many people don’t know about. And today, I’m spilling all the details so you can check a vehicle’s history without spending a dime.


Let’s dive in!


Why You Need a Carfax Report When Buying Private Party

Buying a car from a dealership? Getting a Carfax report is a must. If a dealership refuses to provide one, that's a major red flag 🚩—walk away!


But when you’re buying from a private seller, things get trickier. Most sellers don’t want to pay for a Carfax report just to "maybe" sell their car. That means it’s up to you to do the homework.


And let’s be real—getting a Carfax report is super important because:


✔️ It helps you avoid cars with accidents or damage history.

✔️ You can check if the car has a clean title (no salvages or major issues).

✔️ It gives you an idea of the car’s value to see if you're getting a good deal.


Now, onto the free Carfax method! 🔥


Step-by-Step: How to Get a Free Carfax Report

You found a car you like on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist—great! Now, follow these simple steps:


Step 1: Get the VIN Number

The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is the key to unlocking a car’s history. To get it:


✅ Message the seller and ask for the VIN. Most honest sellers will provide it.

✅ If they refuse, that’s a red flag! 🚩 Walk away.

✅ The VIN is usually listed in the car’s dashboard, driver’s door, or insurance papers.


Once you have the VIN, you’re ready for Step 2!


Step 2: Visit Carvana.com

Yes, you read that right—Carvana! The online car-buying company. They provide instant offers for cars, and during that process, they give a FREE Carfax snapshot. 🤯


Here’s how to do it:


1️⃣ Go to Carvana.com

2️⃣ Click on "Sell Your Car"

3️⃣ Enter the VIN number and your ZIP code

4️⃣ Fill out the details:

✔️ Select the car’s features (guess if you’re unsure)

✔️ Choose "Owned outright" (not financed)

✔️ Choose "Sell for cash" (not trade-in)

✔️ Select a good condition rating (not too low, or they’ll undervalue it)

5️⃣ Submit the form and get an instant offer


Step 3: Check the Free Carfax Report

After submitting, Carvana will show you a cash offer for the vehicle. But here’s the real goldmine:


🔥 Scroll down the page, and you’ll see a free snapshot of the Carfax report! 🔥


This mini Carfax will show:


✅ Accident history 🚫🚗💥

✅ Title status (Clean, Salvage, etc.) 📜

✅ Number of owners 🏡


While it’s not the full Carfax report, it’s more than enough to determine if a car is worth pursuing.


Why This Free Carfax Trick is a Game-Changer

This saves you time and money by helping you avoid sketchy deals before you even meet the seller. No more driving across town only to find out the car has a bad history!


Bonus Tip: Use Carvana’s Offer to Negotiate

Did you know you can use Carvana’s offer to gauge if the car is a good deal?


📌 If the Carvana offer is higher than the seller’s price, that means you’re getting a great deal! You could even flip the car for a profit.

📌 If the Carvana offer is way lower, the seller’s price might be too high—use this as a negotiation tactic.


Example: Real-Life Success Story

I recently bought a minivan using this method. Here's how it went down:


🚗 Found the car on Facebook Marketplace for $8,500

🛠 Checked the Carvana value – They offered $9,000

💰 Bought the car for $8,500, meaning I started with positive equity!


If I wanted, I could’ve flipped it for a profit right away!


Final Thoughts: Should You Always Use This Method?

If you’re buying a car private party, 100% YES! This method is:


✅ Fast – Takes less than 5 minutes

✅ Free – No need to pay for Carfax

✅ Accurate – Gives real Carfax data


Now you can check any car’s history without wasting money. And if you’re into car flipping or rental businesses, this trick is a total game-changer. 🚀


Want More Car Buying Hacks?

If you found this helpful, let me know! Would you like a full guide on how to buy a car private party step-by-step? Drop a comment! 💬👇


And don’t forget to share this trick with your friends—it’ll save them a ton of money too! 💸


Until next time, happy car hunting! 🚗💨💖

Where can you check VIN?

Carfax
Buying car now a days is easy if you have enough budget. But more often it's not the amount of money you will spend what matters most, it is the quality of the car you're planning to buy. A lot of us are wary if the car we want to buy is worth it or will give us headaches.

This is the reason we need to be extra careful in buying a car. We must check it's VIN history so that we can make sure that what we are buying is not a lemon car.

There are many websites that offer VIN check or VIN history. Please check the list below for all the affordable VIN Check website that will suit your preference.


Here are the list of websites that can offer VIN check.


Carfax - $5.48

AutoChecck - $3.99



VIN Check


How does a VIN check work?

Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) are unique identification sequences on every car manufactured in the United States and many other countries. These numbers are sort of like a fingerprint for a car. They help to keep track of problems, ownership changes, and deter theft. A VIN is a 17-character sequence containing both numbers and letters. It is affixed to every car, truck or trailer made in the United States after 1981

Check your used car VIN now!

Now if you're looking for affordable Check out these list of Carfax and Carfax Alternative:


Carfax - $5.48

AutoChecck - $3.99